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Tailors Pattern Books:
- Burguen MS
  (1618 Spain)
- Freyle MS
  (1580 Spain)
- Anduxar MS
  (1648 Spain)
- Alcega MS
  (1580 Spain)
- Hungarian MS
  (1610)
- Polish MS
  (1585)

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Research>Pattern Tailors Books>Burguen MS

Pattern #161a: Faldellin Frances de damasco
A French gown of damask
Pattern #161b: Mantellina de damasco de christianar
A small mantle for christening

Description:

This is a double pattern page containing a pattern for a French dress and a pattern for a mantellina (small, light cloak), both from damask. The damask is probably figured with a directional pattern as the pieces are laid out with bottoms to the left. Notice the curved front of the center pattern piece that corresponds to the curved point of the bodice piece. The back of the skirt also has a curved seam. A translation and fabric requirements are given below.


Large Version of Pattern 161

Back to Burguen

 

Translation:

French faldellin of damask. 6 2/3 baras x 2/3 baras (5.98 yards x 21.5 inches).

To cut this French faldellin, and bodice, that has of Castillian baras, seven baras less one third of damask, and of length, one bara and one half, it is necessary to switch around said damask, and to double the half of the baras on top the other half, to nap and woven pattern, if it has a woven pattern, and of the part of our left hand are cut out the back, and on top the front bodice are cut out, and cuchillos. In this manteo, or faldellin, goes to the quarter front of the body {lobre} the front one of the faldellin, and the back of the body with the back of the faldellin, and should remain one sixth opened by {detras} the back of the faldellin, of luck that does not have another {aberrura} but by after. It has of silk of Valencian baras, six baras and one half: and of Aragon baras, eight baras. And this can be done of any of the said baras by this same one pattern.

Mantellina of damask for christening. 3 5/6 baras x 2/3 baras (3.43 yards x 21.5 inches).

To cut this mantellina of damask, that has of Castillian baras, four baras less one sixth, and of length, one bara and one eighth, it is necessary to spread the cloth all along, and wide the said damask, and of the part of our left hand are cut out the main part, and from the bottom of the main part the camas are cut out, and piešas of camas all to pattern. Some they are used to make but long these mentillos, and other smaller; and also it {dexo} to diserecion of each one of taking the silk that it {pareciere} but or less. This takes of silk of Valencian baras, three baras and one half: and of Aragon baras, four baras: and of Catalonia the half less than the baras of Aragon. And this can be done of any of the said baras by this same one pattern.

For a more complete definition of the various spanish terms, please see A Comprehensive Tailoring Vocabulary.

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