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Research>Pattern Tailors Books>Hungarian
MS
Four pages from a pattern book, circa 1641 Kisszeben,
Hungary -
I have this other friend who is obsessed with Hungarian clothing
circa the 16th Century. She herself is a descendant of Hungarian
Royalty and has amassed quite a collection of specifically
Hungarian resources. One day, while I was visiting, she showed
me a little book she had picked up for a few dollars. She
was excited by the pictures (all black and white) of actual
Hungarian clothing. Many of these pieces were diagramed by
Max Tilke so I became pretty excited as well. She then turned
to the front of the book and showed me the very first photo.
It was of four pages of patterns for coats.
The book itself is titled "Historic Hungarian Costumes"
by Joseph Hollrigl and published by the Officina Budapest
1939. The book was compiled from the material of the 1938
exhibition of Hungarian historic costumes arrangesd by the
Arts and Craft Museum.The four pattern pages, according to
the author, came from a pattern book containing "eleven
pages in watercolor, bound in leather, of the year 1641, from
Kisszeben, kept at present in the Arts and Crafts Museum.
Its German text does not account for much only the date of
the year indicates the rather late origin. The form of the
jacket and of the dolman are already somewhat modified; however,
it clearly shows that the sleeves have not been cut separately
from the choulders as in the present cloaks but they are cut
from one single piece of cloth in a way that the only seam
is at the lower part of the sleeves continuing on both sides
of hte jacket, i. e. when spread out the shoulders and the
upper hem of the sleeves for a straight line." (Hollrigl,
pg. 4, 1939).
| Commentary |
Pattern 1
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| Classic pattern for a man's "caftan".
The 'v' shaped wedge on the front may indicate either
a removal of fabric to facilitate ease of movement or
the insertion of a gusset. |
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Pattern 2
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| Another classic pattern for a man's "caftan".
Notice the addition of the front flap and trim placements.
The cuff also appears to be cut and shaped. |
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Pattern 3
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| Another "caftan" pattern. Again,
there is the addition of a front flap. The inner line
along the side and under seams may indicate the cut of
the undergarment. |
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Pattern 4
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| A beautiful pattern showing the influence
of Western fashion on Eastern garment construction. Notice
the detached skirt, the indication for front fastening
placement and the armseye seam. The sleeve is also shaped. |
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