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Tailors Pattern Books:
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Research>Pattern Tailors Books>Hungarian MS

Four pages from a pattern book, circa 1641 Kisszeben, Hungary -

I have this other friend who is obsessed with Hungarian clothing circa the 16th Century. She herself is a descendant of Hungarian Royalty and has amassed quite a collection of specifically Hungarian resources. One day, while I was visiting, she showed me a little book she had picked up for a few dollars. She was excited by the pictures (all black and white) of actual Hungarian clothing. Many of these pieces were diagramed by Max Tilke so I became pretty excited as well. She then turned to the front of the book and showed me the very first photo. It was of four pages of patterns for coats.

The book itself is titled "Historic Hungarian Costumes" by Joseph Hollrigl and published by the Officina Budapest 1939. The book was compiled from the material of the 1938 exhibition of Hungarian historic costumes arrangesd by the Arts and Craft Museum.The four pattern pages, according to the author, came from a pattern book containing "eleven pages in watercolor, bound in leather, of the year 1641, from Kisszeben, kept at present in the Arts and Crafts Museum. Its German text does not account for much only the date of the year indicates the rather late origin. The form of the jacket and of the dolman are already somewhat modified; however, it clearly shows that the sleeves have not been cut separately from the choulders as in the present cloaks but they are cut from one single piece of cloth in a way that the only seam is at the lower part of the sleeves continuing on both sides of hte jacket, i. e. when spread out the shoulders and the upper hem of the sleeves for a straight line." (Hollrigl, pg. 4, 1939).

Pattern 1
Classic pattern for a man's "caftan". The 'v' shaped wedge on the front may indicate either a removal of fabric to facilitate ease of movement or the insertion of a gusset.
Pattern 2
Another classic pattern for a man's "caftan". Notice the addition of the front flap and trim placements. The cuff also appears to be cut and shaped.
Pattern 3
Another "caftan" pattern. Again, there is the addition of a front flap. The inner line along the side and under seams may indicate the cut of the undergarment.
Pattern 4
A beautiful pattern showing the influence of Western fashion on Eastern garment construction. Notice the detached skirt, the indication for front fastening placement and the armseye seam. The sleeve is also shaped.


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