Pattern
#146: Calcon de seda, ropilla, y jubon al sesgo
Breeches
of silk, cassock, and jerkin on the bias.
Description:
This is a man's cassock, jerkin and breeches cut on the bias to take advantage of the striped fabric. The fabric required is "seda" or plain silk. Notice that the stripes run across the width rather than the length of the fabric. Also notice how very little waste is allowed, even with the bias placement. Much of this is due to piecing up of larger pattern pieces; i.e., the calcon (breech) pieces, located on the lefthand side with their requisite pieces cut out next to them. The sleeves, located on the righthand side, are also treated in the same manner.
Notice the difference between the jerkin and doublet patterns as well as the difference between the jerkin sleeves and doublet sleeves. The jerkin pieces are much less fitted and somewhat blockier in appearance. It is not clear from the description which set of sleeves goes with which body. My opinion would be that the tighter fitted sleeves, located on the righthand side would go with the cassock, and the larger sleeves, located to the right of the breech leg patterns would go with the jerkin. A translation and fabric requirements is given below.
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Translation:
Breeches of silk, cassock, and jerkin cut on the bias. 9 1/4 baras x 2/3 baras (8 1/4 yards x 21.5 inches).
To cut these breeches, cassock, and jerkin of silk, on the bias that has of Castillian baras, nine baras and one quarter, it is necessary to switch around the silk, and to double the half of the baras on top the other half, well aim the silk, and of the part of our left hand give it one {zabon} upon the silk of one bara in length, to the slant, and of all was cut the one and on top was cut the other, and from among middle they are cut out the pieças of the said breeches, and over the breeches the sleeves are cut out, backs, quarter fronts, haldas backs, and haldillas of the jerkin, collars, quarter fronts of the cassock, haldas front, backs of the jerkin, collars, and sleeves; and of the middles they are cut out finishing pieces for this said jerkin. It has itself to be advised itself {fuere} listing, that to should {yr} every {arpon} up, as seems here figured. This takes of silk of Valencian baras, eight baras, one half and one sixth: and of Aragon baras, ten baras less one quarter: and of Catalonia the half less than the baras of Aragon. And this can be done of any of the said baras by this same one pattern.
For a more complete definition of the various spanish terms, please see A Comprehensive Tailoring Vocabulary.
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