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Tailors Pattern Books:
- Burguen MS
  (1618 Spain)
- Freyle MS
  (1580 Spain)
- Anduxar MS
  (1648 Spain)
- Alcega MS
  (1580 Spain)
- Hungarian MS
  (1610)
- Polish MS
  (1585)

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Research>Pattern Tailors Books>Burguen MS

Pattern #133: Sayo de pano Montenez, Castellano
A "skirted doublet" from the Castillian Mountains

Description:

This is a "sayo" or skirted doublet (my interpretation) from the Castillian mountain region in Spain.
The skirt, A, is virtually a full circle skirt which appears to be pleated into the waist. I think that this would resemble the earlier Tudor bases. Notice the "v" neck of the body pieces, with the side seam following the back muscle points. This pattern is for "pano" or plain fabric, without nap or direction. Notice how the 'cama' or large skirt piece, AC, faces the opposite direction of skirt, A, and the make-up piece for the cama, C, faces opposite of AC. A Translation of the text and required fabric amounts is given below.


Large Version of Pattern 133

Back to Burguen

Translation of Text:

Sayo of cloth {Monta˝ez, Castellano}. 4 2/3 baras x 2 baras (4.189 yards x 64.66 inches)

To cut this sayo of cloth for Monta˝ez, that has of Castillian baras, four baras and two thirds, and of length, of the haldas, one bara less three fingers width, it is necessary to spread the cloth all along, and of the part of our left hand are cut out the haldas, and inside the sacaduras of the haldas are cut out the quarter backs, and front; and underneath the haldas the sleeves are cut out, and of the edges the camas are cut out of the haldas, and piešas of haldas; and of the middle are cut out finishing pieces for said sayo. It has itself to be advised that they go the haldas all {fronzidas}, or to your fold, until {vanga} well to the measurement of the body. This takes of cloth of Valencian baras, four baras and one quarter: and of Aragon baras, five bara less one eighth: of Catalonia the half less than the baras of Aragon. And this can be done of any of the said baras by this same one pattern.

For a more complete definition of the various spanish terms, please see A Comprehensive Tailoring Vocabulary.

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