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Research>Pattern Tailors Books>Burguen
MS
Pattern #133: Sayo de pano Montenez, Castellano
A "skirted doublet" from the Castillian Mountains
Description:
This is a "sayo" or skirted doublet
(my interpretation) from the Castillian mountain region in
Spain.
The skirt, A, is virtually a full circle skirt which appears
to be pleated into the waist. I think that this would resemble
the earlier Tudor bases. Notice the "v" neck of
the body pieces, with the side seam following the back muscle
points. This pattern is for "pano" or plain fabric,
without nap or direction. Notice how the 'cama' or large skirt
piece, AC, faces the opposite direction of skirt, A, and the
make-up piece for the cama, C, faces opposite of AC. A Translation
of the text and required fabric amounts is given below.
Large
Version of Pattern 133
Back to Burguen
Translation of Text:
Sayo of cloth {Montañez, Castellano}. 4 2/3 baras x
2 baras (4.189 yards x 64.66 inches)
To cut this sayo of cloth for Montañez, that has of Castillian
baras, four baras and two thirds, and of length, of the
haldas, one bara less three fingers width, it is necessary
to spread the cloth all along, and of the part of our left
hand are cut out the haldas, and inside the sacaduras of
the haldas are cut out the quarter backs, and front; and
underneath the haldas the sleeves are cut out, and of the
edges the camas are cut out of the haldas, and pieças of
haldas; and of the middle are cut out finishing pieces for
said sayo. It has itself to be advised that they go the
haldas all {fronzidas}, or to your fold, until {vanga} well
to the measurement of the body. This takes of cloth of Valencian
baras, four baras and one quarter: and of Aragon baras,
five bara less one eighth: of Catalonia the half less than
the baras of Aragon. And this can be done of any of the
said baras by this same one pattern.
For a more complete definition of the various
spanish terms, please see A
Comprehensive Tailoring Vocabulary.
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