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Research>Pattern Tailors Books>Burguen
MS
Pattern #146: Calcon de seda, ropilla, y
jubon al sesgo
Breeches of silk, cassock, and jerkin on the bias.
Description:
This is a man's cassock, jerkin and breeches cut on the bias
to take advantage of the striped fabric. The fabric required
is "seda" or plain silk. Notice that the stripes
run across the width rather than the length of the fabric.
Also notice how very little waste is allowed, even with the
bias placement. Much of this is due to piecing up of larger
pattern pieces; i.e., the calcon (breech) pieces, located
on the lefthand side with their requisite pieces cut out next
to them. The sleeves, located on the righthand side, are also
treated in the same manner.
Notice the difference between the jerkin and doublet patterns
as well as the difference between the jerkin sleeves and doublet
sleeves. The jerkin pieces are much less fitted and somewhat
blockier in appearance. It is not clear from the description
which set of sleeves goes with which body. My opinion would
be that the tighter fitted sleeves, located on the righthand
side would go with the cassock, and the larger sleeves, located
to the right of the breech leg patterns would go with the
jerkin. A translation and fabric requirements is given below.
Large
Version of Pattern 146
Back to Burguen
Breeches of silk, cassock, and jerkin cut on the bias.
9 1/4 baras x 2/3 baras (8 1/4 yards x 21.5 inches).
To cut these breeches, cassock, and jerkin of silk, on
the bias that has of Castillian baras, nine baras and
one quarter, it is necessary to switch around the silk,
and to double the half of the baras on top the other half,
well aim the silk, and of the part of our left hand give
it one {zabon} upon the silk of one bara in length, to
the slant, and of all was cut the one and on top was cut
the other, and from among middle they are cut out the
pieças of the said breeches, and over the breeches the
sleeves are cut out, backs, quarter fronts, haldas backs,
and haldillas of the jerkin, collars, quarter fronts of
the cassock, haldas front, backs of the jerkin, collars,
and sleeves; and of the middles they are cut out finishing
pieces for this said jerkin. It has itself to be advised
itself {fuere} listing, that to should {yr} every {arpon}
up, as seems here figured. This takes of silk of Valencian
baras, eight baras, one half and one sixth: and of Aragon
baras, ten baras less one quarter: and of Catalonia the
half less than the baras of Aragon. And this can be done
of any of the said baras by this same one pattern.
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