Defining the Toile and the Mock-Up:
The Toile -
The toile, usually made from a muslin or other cheap fabric,
is developed from the basic body block measurements. The word
"toile" literally translated from French means "fabric".
Basically, the measurements from the body are drawn on to
the muslin and pattern pieces are developed from them, seam
allowances added, and the pattern pieces are cut out and sewn
together. Once the toile is sewn together, it can be fitted
to the body and any issues of fit addressed at that time before
moving on to the mock-up or the actual garment construction.
For information on what and where to measure on the body,
The Mock-up -
The phrase "mock-up" literally means to make an
experimental model or replica of a proposed structure. In
terms of tailoring, a mock-up is a model of the proposed garment,
made from less expensive fabric. The mock-up is created to
test theories on the pattern design of various pieces of clothing.
For instance, suppose we see a certain type of sleeve in a
portrait and want to recreate it. We make a number of guesses
about the pattern of the sleeve and then make a mock-up of
the sleeve to test these theories. Once we hit upon just the
right pattern, we can then procede to the more expensive fabric.
How does a mock-up differ from a toile? The mock-up not only
tests the fit of the garment, it also tests what the finished
garment will look like. Ideally, a mock-up should be made
from less expensive fabric that has very near the same weight
and movement (called "hand") as the more expensive
fabrice. The entire garment should be mocked up to test how
it will behave and how it will look on the body.
When should a mock-up be made? Whenever you are making a
garment you have never made before from a pattern that you
have had to guess the shape of. The toile, in this case, is
the pattern developed from the body block. The mock-up is
made from the toile to test the theory.