 |
Demonstrations>Body Measurement>What
and Where to Measure
The following photos illustrate the landmarks used to measure
a body for the development of a "sloper" or "toile"
pattern. A sloper (modern name) or toile (period name) is
a generic pattern developed from a person's body measurements
that can be used as the foundation to generate subsequent
period patterns.
These same landmarks are used to generate both men's and
women's toiles for the period under study. Bear in mind that
the body was shaped by the clothing during this era, not the
other way around. Darts and other techniques for shaping are
used very rarely until after the 1650's.
|
The basic landmarks of the torso.
|
Measuring the front length.
|
Measureing the back length.
|
 |
 |
 |
| When developing a toile, develop
both a front and a back pattern. This takes the differing
shapes of the front and back into account and helps to
place seams on muscle points. (A - B) |
The best landmarks for measuring
the font and back are found by using the bones of the
clavicle and the vertebra as start points. (C - D) |
|
Shoulder measurement.
|
Chest and waist measurement.
|
Underarm measurement.
|
|
|
|
|
| Measure both front shoulder
width and back shoulder width using the clavicle bones.
(A - E and C - E)
|
Measure each landmark for
the chest and waist. In this case, there are landmarks
for the upper chest, bossom point, lower chest, and waist.
For the bossom, place the tape on the fullest part of
the bossom. (C - HD and F - H, I - O and O - J, B - EE
and G - D) |
Measure from the point of
the underarm that is comfortable to the waist. (O - EE
and O - G) |
| Diagonal shoulder measurement. |
Neck to shoulder measurement.
|
|
 |
|
|
| This measurement determines
the placement of the slope of the shoulder in relation
to the rest of the body. (B - CC) |
Measure from the base of the
neck to the shoulder using the clavicle as the end point. |
|
|
Drawing the pattern out.
|
|
 |
| Using the measurements
obtained above, chart out on paper or on muslin the torso
pattern. If done on muslin, add seam allowances, cut,
sew seams and try toile on. This will help determine any
specific problems of fit that need to be addressed prior
to cutting the actual garment out. |
|
Developing the arm pattern
|
|
|
|
Outside and
inside arm measurement.
|
Shoulder
to elbow, elbow to wrist.
|
Bicep, forearm
and wrist.
|
 |
 |
 |
| Measure the arm while hanging
and while bent. As a general rule, using the bent measurments
is best but some styles of sleeve will require the hanging
measurement. |
Measure from the shoulder
to the elbow and from the underarm to the inner elbow.
Also measure from the outer elbow to the wrist and from
the inner elbow to the wrist.
|
 |
 |
 |
Measure around the bicep, the forearem
and the wrist.
|
|
