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Demonstrations>Pattern Development>Basic
Rectangular Patterns
Tunics/Coats
Pants
Tunic/Coat Construction
Style 1 The basic shirt always includes sections A
and B. Section A normally covers the shoulders and torso and
can be of various length; from waist to floor. It is often
cut in one continuous piece, front to back but can have shoulder
seams. Section B covers the arm. It can also be cut in one
continuous piece or pieced up from several pieces.
Style 2 includes both section A and B in addition
to a third section, C ( what is known as a gusset), placed
under section B and adjoining section A. The best way to construct
this garment is to attach the gussets to the sleeves first
and then attach this constructed portion to the body of the
garment.
Style 3 includes both section A and B in addition
to a third section, D (what is known as a gore), placed on
the side of section A.
Style 4 includes sections A, B, C (gusset), and D
(gore).
Style 5 is a variation of Style 4 where the gore and
gusset are joined.
Style 6 is another variation of Style 4 where the
gore extends to the sleeve. The gusset is then placed adjoining
the gore and the sleeve.
Style 7 is the third variation of Style 4 where the
gore extends to the sleeve and the gusset is absent.
Any of the above styles may also include variations of sleeves.
Sleeve variation 1 includes the basic sleeve and an additional
triangular piece. Sleeve variation 2 uses the basic sleeve
pattern with the removal of material to taper the sleeve to
the wrist.
Any of the above styles (especially if they are used as outer
garments) may also include a front flap, similarly shaped
to the gore, and inserted on the cut front seam of section
A.
Pants construction
Style 1 - The basic pair of pants always contains
two sections; one for each leg. The waist and ankle treatments
can vary or even be non-existant. Style 1 has no "crotch"
as we would think of it.
Style 2 - Like Style 1, there are two sections but
they are only joined at the top of the pants. The two sections
are then split and sewn to themselves to create a pant leg
and crotch area.
Style 3 - This style is constructed like Style 2 with
the addition of a gusset to widen the crotch area.
Style 4 - This style is constructed as for Style 2
but the pant legs have been defined by cutting away material.
There is no gusset.
Style 5 - This style is constructed as for Style 4
with the addition of a gusset. When cutting the fabric to
define the pant legs, a triangle is formed. This is then rotated
45 degrees and sewn in as a gusset.
Style 6 - This style is an hybrid construction between
Style 1 and Style 5. The gusset, however, is not a triangle
but a rectangle and the pant legs are only shaped below the
gusset insert.
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