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About>Galleries>Projects Gallery 2>Replica from the Burguen MS, 1618

This is a recreation of a man's doublet, sleeves and breeches. The pattern was taken from a tailor's pattern book published in 1618 by Francisco de la Rocha de Burguen. The pattern, titled #146 Calcon de seda, ropilla, y jubon al sesgo (Breeches of silk, doublet and jerkin cut on the bias), is one of only two extant patterns showing clothing cutting on the bias to take advantage of vertical or horizontal stripes.

The tailoring techniques to make a garment cut completely on the bias which does not stretch out of shape or is ill fitted are fairly straightforward. The most necessary part is the interlining and lining of the garment which is NOT cut on the bias. These two layers, with the interlining being sandwiched between the lining and the outer shell, become the foundation for the bias cut outer shell. This foundation insures that the outershell does not stretch out of shape and is capable of being tailored and fitted to the body.

There is, however, a great deal of waste associated with cutting a garment out on the bias. This is a mixed blessing for the tailor, as most of the scraps or 'cabbage' would also be bias cut and therefore only usable under certain circumstances. The amount of fabric necessary to cut on the bias is about one and one half times as much as is required for a straight grain cut garment, which meant that the bias cut garment was much more expensive.

For this particular garment, I choose an odd ribbed, medium weight courderoy, a medium weight linen and, for the interlining, a medium weight muslin. The lines of the Cavalier period are a little less severe than those for the Elizabethan period. Had this been an Elizabethan era set, I would have choosen a light canvas or heavy even weave cotton for the interlining as it would've needed to not only be the foundation for the outershell but would also have some stress from fitting tightly around the body.

After all fabrics had been washed, I laid the courderoy out first, situated my pattern pieces on the bias, checking to make sure that all pieces were slanted the same way and the same angle and then cut all the shell pieces, excluding the collar and shoulder wings. I then laid the mulsin interlining and linen lining out together, and cut all pattern pieces according to the straight of grain.

When constructing the garment components, I placed the interlining and outershell together and treated them as one piece of fabric throughout the entire process.

Lastly, from the various scraps, I cut the collar pieces, shoulder wings and breach cuffs.

In order to reinforce the seams of the doublet at the shoulders and at the sides, I purchased a couple of skeins of perle cotton of the same color as the courderoy and made them into braid. These braids were then tacked down prior to finishing the seams. For a demonstration braid making, click here.

Pattern #146.
Click here for a large
version of Pattern 146

A closer look at the details of the above garments:

Back of Doublet Pants
Detail of side Detail of shoulder
Detail of trim Detail of pants interior
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