- New Demos

- Classes & Schedule

Getting Started
- Basic Sewing Tech
- Fun With Bias

Body Measurement
- What & Where to Measure

Pattern Development
- Basic Pattern Drafting
- Basic Pattern Development
- The Toile & Mock-Up
- Basic Rectangular Patterns

Sewing Tech
- Gores, Gussets, and Inserts
- Facings
- Cartridge Pleating
- Basic Handsewing Techniques
- Hand Bound Eyelet Holes
- Machine Seams

Trims & Embellishment
- 5 Cross Cultural Embroidery Stitches
- Appliqué Techniques
- Passemaine (hand made trims)
- Trims requiring very little equipment
- Complicated Trims
- Cardweaving
- Buttons
- Making Felt

Western European
- Underwear
- Shirts
- Farthingales
- Corsets
- Stockings
- Collars and Cuffs
- Partlets
- Gloves
- Hats
- Shoes

Eastern European:

- Shirts
- Pants
- Coats
- Shoes
- Boots
- Hats
- Jewelry

Ancillary Arts
- Fans
- Pouch Hinges, Part 1
- Pouch Hinges, Part 2

Demonstrations>Pattern Development>Mock-Ups

Defining the Toile and the Mock-Up:

The Toile -

The toile, usually made from a muslin or other cheap fabric, is developed from the basic body block measurements. The word "toile" literally translated from French means "fabric".

Basically, the measurements from the body are drawn on to the muslin and pattern pieces are developed from them, seam allowances added, and the pattern pieces are cut out and sewn together. Once the toile is sewn together, it can be fitted to the body and any issues of fit addressed at that time before moving on to the mock-up or the actual garment construction.

For information on what and where to measure on the body, click here.

The Mock-up -

The phrase "mock-up" literally means to make an experimental model or replica of a proposed structure. In terms of tailoring, a mock-up is a model of the proposed garment, made from less expensive fabric. The mock-up is created to test theories on the pattern design of various pieces of clothing. For instance, suppose we see a certain type of sleeve in a portrait and want to recreate it. We make a number of guesses about the pattern of the sleeve and then make a mock-up of the sleeve to test these theories. Once we hit upon just the right pattern, we can then procede to the more expensive fabric.

How does a mock-up differ from a toile? The mock-up not only tests the fit of the garment, it also tests what the finished garment will look like. Ideally, a mock-up should be made from less expensive fabric that has very near the same weight and movement (called "hand") as the more expensive fabrice. The entire garment should be mocked up to test how it will behave and how it will look on the body.

When should a mock-up be made? Whenever you are making a garment you have never made before from a pattern that you have had to guess the shape of. The toile, in this case, is the pattern developed from the body block. The mock-up is made from the toile to test the theory.


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