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Demonstrations>Trims and Embellishment>Passemaine
(Hand Made Trims)
Simple Passemaine Trims -
This particular demonstration started out as a fairly small,
fairly straightforward page of techniques. As you can see,
it's become a monster! Some of the individual techniques actually
deserve their own demonstration. Where possible, I've included
illustrations of the techniques but some are too extensive
for this to be done. In those cases, I've tried to include
a book where illustrations and more thorough explanations
of the technique can be found. Most books are under $20 US
and can be ordered online.
If a particular technique requires specific equipment, I've
included online stores where those tools can be found. Most
tools are under $20 US.
These days, Passemaine or Passemainterie means tassel and
fringe making and all the other little things associated with
that craft. During the late 16th and early 17th centuries,
however, Passemaine (which translates from French literally
as "passing through the hands") meant braids, cords
and other trims which required only the hands or hands and
other limited tools to accomplish.
The following techniques are broken up into three categories;
hands only techniques, limited equipment techniques, and extensive
equipment techniques. No matter the equipment, however, all
these techniques are simple, straightforward, and extensively
used in period. One last caveat: the following presentation
is by no means exhaustive of the techniques used in period.
Hands Only Techniques -
 Braiding
or Plaiting and all its myriad variations fall into
this category. All you need are your hands, cord and a stationary
object to hook your cord to in order to plait. The familiar
technique of three ply braiding is probably the most simple
type of trim to make. Surprisingly, in the late 16th and early
17th centuries, there are many examples of this simple technique
being carried out and the result applied to garments. Three
ply braiding can be accomplished with three strands of cord
or can be varied by adding strands and plaiting each strand
separately or treating several strands as one plait and going
from there.
 Four
or more strands of cord, treated individually in the plaiting
process can produce beautiful results. The first process of
individual strand plaiting involves literally weaving a strand
from the outside through all the other strands, dropping it,
and then weaving the next strand from the same side through
all of the strands, the first included, dropping it and so
on. This is literally finger weaving and produces a biased
patterned plait. Examples of this type of braid can be seen
on garments as trim and were also used as finished cords for
tying together bonnets, sleeves, and other small garments.
 The
second process of individual plaiting involves plaiting both
outside strands simultaneously. This is more commonly known
as French braiding. It produces an actual braid rather than
a woven braid as with the technique above.
 One
of the most common and very period variations of three ply
braid is known as Greek Braid or Greek Plait.
It requires five strands of cord but, during the plaiting
process, the outside strand is plaited over the two strands
next to it and left in the center. The outside strand on the
other side is then plaited over the strand next to it and
the outside strand left in the center from the first plaiting
process. The illustration to the left shows the process. This
particular braid is fairly dense but turns around corners
well and is easy to stitch down. Examples of it can be found
on almost all garments from the period.
 A
more complicated braiding treatment is shown in the illustration
to the left in which the three outside strands on both sides
are treated as two single strands in the plaiting process
and the two center strands are used to plait in and out between
them. This produces a beautiful braid and, if made with thick
cord, the result can be a very wide trim. Examples of this
braid can be seen on many garments.
Macramé, a technique of decorative knotting,
uses simple basic knots to create a multitude of patterns.
The term derives from an Arabic word for braided fringe. Its
first known use was recorded by Arabs in the 13th cent. During
the next hundred years it spread to Southern Europe where
it remained in use until modern day. Historically, the Arabic
term for macramé, had a much wider meaning, which included
strips, braids, grids, squares, and medallions as well as
fringes and scallops. Macramé can actually be considered
as the grandmother of bobbin lace techniques. The only difference
between macramé and bobbin lace (both use bobbins)
is that macramé is accomplished using simple knots
whereas most bobbin laces are accomplished by twisting the
threads together. This particular embellishment technique
is extremely suited to the Southern European and Central Asian
areas. Because the number of knot types is extensive, I won't
get into the "how-to" in this demo. I will refer
anyone interested to The
Complete Encyclopedia of Needlework by Therese de
Dillmont. This book is available from Amazon for about $12
US. Click on the title to read more about it!
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