- New Demos

- Classes & Schedule

Getting Started
- Basic Sewing Tech
- Fun With Bias

Body Measurement
- What & Where to Measure

Pattern Development
- Basic Pattern Drafting
- Basic Pattern Development
- The Toile & Mock-Up
- Basic Rectangular Patterns

Sewing Tech
- Gores, Gussets, and Inserts
- Facings
- Cartridge Pleating
- Basic Handsewing Techniques
- Hand Bound Eyelet Holes
- Machine Seams

Trims & Embellishment
- 5 Cross Cultural Embroidery Stitches
- Appliqué Techniques
- Passemaine (hand made trims)
- Trims requiring very little equipment
- Complicated Trims
- Cardweaving
- Buttons
- Making Felt

Western European
- Underwear
- Shirts
- Farthingales
- Corsets
- Stockings
- Collars and Cuffs
- Partlets
- Gloves
- Hats
- Shoes

Eastern European:

- Shirts
- Pants
- Coats
- Shoes
- Boots
- Hats
- Jewelry

Ancillary Arts
- Fans
- Pouch Hinges, Part 1
- Pouch Hinges, Part 2

Demonstrations>Pattern Development>Basic Rectangular Patterns


Tunic/Coat Construction

Style 1 The basic shirt always includes sections A and B. Section A normally covers the shoulders and torso and can be of various length; from waist to floor. It is often cut in one continuous piece, front to back but can have shoulder seams. Section B covers the arm. It can also be cut in one continuous piece or pieced up from several pieces.

Style 2 includes both section A and B in addition to a third section, C ( what is known as a gusset), placed under section B and adjoining section A. The best way to construct this garment is to attach the gussets to the sleeves first and then attach this constructed portion to the body of the garment.

Style 3 includes both section A and B in addition to a third section, D (what is known as a gore), placed on the side of section A.

Style 4 includes sections A, B, C (gusset), and D (gore).

Style 5 is a variation of Style 4 where the gore and gusset are joined.

Style 6 is another variation of Style 4 where the gore extends to the sleeve. The gusset is then placed adjoining the gore and the sleeve.

Style 7 is the third variation of Style 4 where the gore extends to the sleeve and the gusset is absent.

Any of the above styles may also include variations of sleeves. Sleeve variation 1 includes the basic sleeve and an additional triangular piece. Sleeve variation 2 uses the basic sleeve pattern with the removal of material to taper the sleeve to the wrist.

Any of the above styles (especially if they are used as outer garments) may also include a front flap, similarly shaped to the gore, and inserted on the cut front seam of section A.

Pants construction

Style 1 - The basic pair of pants always contains two sections; one for each leg. The waist and ankle treatments can vary or even be non-existant. Style 1 has no "crotch" as we would think of it.

Style 2 - Like Style 1, there are two sections but they are only joined at the top of the pants. The two sections are then split and sewn to themselves to create a pant leg and crotch area.

Style 3 - This style is constructed like Style 2 with the addition of a gusset to widen the crotch area.

Style 4 - This style is constructed as for Style 2 but the pant legs have been defined by cutting away material. There is no gusset.

Style 5 - This style is constructed as for Style 4 with the addition of a gusset. When cutting the fabric to define the pant legs, a triangle is formed. This is then rotated 45 degrees and sewn in as a gusset.

Style 6 - This style is an hybrid construction between Style 1 and Style 5. The gusset, however, is not a triangle but a rectangle and the pant legs are only shaped below the gusset insert.

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