- New Demos

- Classes & Schedule

Getting Started
- Basic Sewing Tech
- Fun With Bias

Body Measurement
- What & Where to Measure

Pattern Development
- Basic Pattern Drafting
- Basic Pattern Development
- The Toile & Mock-Up
- Basic Rectangular Patterns

Sewing Tech
- Gores, Gussets, and Inserts
- Facings
- Cartridge Pleating
- Basic Handsewing Techniques
- Hand Bound Eyelet Holes
- Machine Seams

Trims & Embellishment
- 5 Cross Cultural Embroidery Stitches
- Appliqué Techniques
- Passemaine (hand made trims)
- Trims requiring very little equipment
- Complicated Trims
- Cardweaving
- Buttons
- Making Felt

Western European
- Underwear
- Shirts
- Farthingales
- Corsets
- Stockings
- Collars and Cuffs
- Partlets
- Gloves
- Hats
- Shoes

Eastern European:

- Shirts
- Pants
- Coats
- Shoes
- Boots
- Hats
- Jewelry

Ancillary Arts
- Fans
- Pouch Hinges, Part 1
- Pouch Hinges, Part 2

Demonstrations>Body Measurement>What and Where to Measure

The following photos illustrate the landmarks used to measure a body for the development of a "sloper" or "toile" pattern. A sloper (modern name) or toile (period name) is a generic pattern developed from a person's body measurements that can be used as the foundation to generate subsequent period patterns.

These same landmarks are used to generate both men's and women's toiles for the period under study. Bear in mind that the body was shaped by the clothing during this era, not the other way around. Darts and other techniques for shaping are used very rarely until after the 1650's.

The basic landmarks of the torso.
Measuring the front length.
Measureing the back length.
When developing a toile, develop both a front and a back pattern. This takes the differing shapes of the front and back into account and helps to place seams on muscle points. (A - B) The best landmarks for measuring the font and back are found by using the bones of the clavicle and the vertebra as start points. (C - D)
Shoulder measurement.
Chest and waist measurement.
Underarm measurement.
Measure both front shoulder width and back shoulder width using the clavicle bones. (A - E and C - E)


Measure each landmark for the chest and waist. In this case, there are landmarks for the upper chest, bossom point, lower chest, and waist. For the bossom, place the tape on the fullest part of the bossom. (C - HD and F - H, I - O and O - J, B - EE and G - D) Measure from the point of the underarm that is comfortable to the waist. (O - EE and O - G)
Diagonal shoulder measurement.
Neck to shoulder measurement.
This measurement determines the placement of the slope of the shoulder in relation to the rest of the body. (B - CC) Measure from the base of the neck to the shoulder using the clavicle as the end point.  
Drawing the pattern out.

Using the measurements obtained above, chart out on paper or on muslin the torso pattern. If done on muslin, add seam allowances, cut, sew seams and try toile on. This will help determine any specific problems of fit that need to be addressed prior to cutting the actual garment out.
Developing the arm pattern
Outside and inside arm measurement.
Shoulder to elbow, elbow to wrist.
Bicep, forearm and wrist.
Measure the arm while hanging and while bent. As a general rule, using the bent measurments is best but some styles of sleeve will require the hanging measurement. Measure from the shoulder to the elbow and from the underarm to the inner elbow. Also measure from the outer elbow to the wrist and from the inner elbow to the wrist.
Measure around the bicep, the forearem and the wrist.
Developing the pant pattern
Hips Rise (or crotch)  
Measure around the hips, the inseam, the outseam and the rise. The measurement of the rise is better taken if the person is sitting down on a hard, flat surface.
Inseam Outseam  
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